Wilton's, 55 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6LX    

 I include this budget-busting option because, at this time of year, there's simply no better place to taste great British game. Often overlooked in favour of more recognisable dishes, game - whether of the feathered or furred variety – is, for me, a favourite choice during the dank, dark months of autumn and winter.

Located in the capital's prime shopping street for gentlemen of (classic) fashion, Wilton's is about as traditional as they come. Founded in the 18th century at a time when Beau Brummell strutted the cobbles of Jermyn Street (there's a statue of the legendary dandy a hundred yards or so from the restaurant), Wilton's is plush, comforting and discreet. Staff are accustomed to an old-school clientele mixed with deep-pocketed tourists and the occasional flashy hedge fund arriviste.

The menu is appropriately traditional offering delights from sea, river, land and sky. Starters begin at around £8 for a soup dish and go up to £50 for oysters (don't even think about the caviar!). Mains average around £30 (extra for sides), but include such wonders as partridge, grouse and - hooray - roast teal. There's great beef, lamb and fish too, of course, but you can have these anywhere; so why not treat yourself to something a little different?

But the wine list - fantastic of course, and Wilton's now properly recognises the excellent produce of the New World. But it's the stuff from France that really tantalises, and usually just that little teeny bit away from being truly affordable. There are relative bargains to be had, but reckon on a minimum price of £80 per bottle for a decent entry-level wine.

I wouldn't choose Wilton's in the summer months, but it really comes into its own at this time of year. Swaddled in deep Pullman seating and surrounded by terrific eclectic artworks, the smells from the kitchen and natural warmth of the place combine to provide a very fine and memorable dining experience.

Save it for a special occasion, but if you fancy a change from those oh-so-trendy wood, glass and bare table joints, treat yourself to lunch or dinner in a unique London restaurant that has never compromised on its promise to serve very good food very well.

Top Tip: Dress up. This is Jermyn Street, not Shoreditch. I don't believe the management still insists on ties, but be your own man (or woman) and pull out your best threads to do justice to the experience. And once settled, do try the game.

Nearby Watering Hole: Just a 10 minutes stroll from Wilton's is the Red Lion (Crown Passage, SW1Y 6PP). With a genuine 'village' feel, this pub boasts two small saloons, one on ground level and a usually quieter space upstairs. It is unashamedly old-fashioned and hugely popular with locals, businessmen and the more inquisitive tourist. It offers the perfect complement for a visit to Wilton's.