My previous reviews have focused on well-established eateries that have withstood the test of time and fickle fashion. For this month's, I'm going to stick out my neck and plump for a new opening - always a gamble in the capital's ever-changing restaurant scene.
The Colony Grill Room is the public restaurant of the Beaumont Hotel. Located in a difficult to find position between Oxford Street and Grosvenor Square, the art deco-themed hotel opened late last year to good acclaim.
As its full name suggests, the Colony takes its inspiration from the classic American grill room. Dating from the early 20th Century, grill rooms were designed to provide first-class food, simply cooked and presented, in luxurious surroundings but free from the strict formality and dress codes of grand hotels and gourmet restaurants.
Compatible with the looser social mores ushered in by the end of the First World War, and encouraged by the phenomenon of the travelling American millionaire (think of today's Russian oligarchs and mid-Eastern oil barons), grill rooms rapidly established themselves in the major cities of Europe. Falling out of favour in the 1980s and '90s, they've made a spectacular comeback in recent years, particularly in London.
The Colony is everything you could want from a classic grill room: sumptuously appointed; spacious but intimate; humming with conversation and activity; fine food and drink. It's the type of place where 'Mad Men' Don Draper and Roger Sterling would happily spend several hours servicing a never-ending line of Dry Martinis.
The menu is appropriately straightforward and well-designed. New York hotdogs and hamburgers - with a special slant, of course - appear to sell well; as do the various cuts of steak on offer. Having tried it twice, I can vouch for the excellence of the roasted cod. And the drinks list covers just about everything you think of: from craft beer to exotic spirits and fine wine.
What I particularly like about the Colony is its ubiquitousness. It works equally well for a 'power breakfast' (does anybody still have them?) as for a casual lunch or indulgent, lingering dinner. I haven't tried it myself yet, but I reckon it would tick all the boxes too for something on the romantic side.
Underpinning the whole pleasant experience is the staff. Clearly well-drilled, they exude professionalism and skill. Service is prompt and efficient, and requests attended to without fuss or drama. They look the part and act it too. Try them out.
Top tip: When booking, request a banquette/booth. Lining the walls of the restaurant, they offer great views and a degree of intimacy.
Nearby Watering Hole: This part of Mayfair and the immediate area north of Oxford Street are not short of pubs. But if you want to avoid the shopping/tourist crowds or the omnipresent hedge fund whizz kids, satisfy yourself with the restaurant's American Bar. If entering from the street you have to pass through it, so why not linger? It's very smart and oozes Art Deco glamour. Ideal for aperitifs or liqueurs, it's the perfect complement to a meal in the Colony.
By Bob Sturges of Omni Capital
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