London's top tables
By AdminIn a continuing series of features, Bob Sturges of Omni Capital offers a personal view on some of London's finest, if not always best-known, restaurants...
In a continuing series of features, Bob Sturges of Omni Capital offers a personal view on some of London's finest, if not always best-known, restaurants.
Belvedere, Abbotsbury Road, Holland Park, W8 6LU
Belvedere is one of my all-time favourite places to eat in the spring and summer months. Beautifully situated in Holland Park, the westernmost point of central London's big green spaces, it occupies the site of the former ballroom of a 17th-century estate that once stood here. It was also a favoured haunt of the late Michael Winner, a denizen and director of the visceral "Death Wish" film series. But don't let that put you off - Winner knew a thing or two about restaurants and the food they serve.
Modern technology makes finding Belvedere much easier than on the occasion of my first visit: don't be fooled as I was by the misleading sign at the High Street Kensington end of Holland Park; the restaurant's some distance away, and far better approached from Notting Hill.
Belvedere lies rather unassumingly off a swanky residential road behind a municipal car park given an exotic twist by the presence of wandering peacocks (I kid you not). The building is nicely proportioned and sits within immaculately-tendered gardens bordered by outbuildings and galleried walkways. On a sunny day, it all feels light years away from the usual hustle-and-bustle of the capital's streets.
Once inside, the tiny reception area gives way to a room of palatial proportions. The main ground floor dining room is flanked to one side by a mezzanine-level room (often used to accommodate early diners attending one of regular opera performances given in the park behind) and overlooked by a gallery affording more dining space.
Tables are spaced well-apart and enjoy the added benefit of a high ceiling and very attractive lighting that gradually dims with the setting of the sun. Staff are quick on their feet, brusquely efficient and attentive without being intrusive. The clientele ranges from well-heeled locals to curious park visitors and in-the-know corporate types. All are kept entertained by a pianist tinkling away on the ivories.
Until quite recently the menu still took its inspiration from a former owner, Marco Pierre White. He's long since taken his leave, but the food certainly hasn't suffered. Quite simply, there's something for everyone: fish and seafood from the West Country; great beef and venison; and a choice of stylish vegetarian dishes. Prices begin at around £8 for a starter and £18 for a main - which is great value - complemented by a well-balanced and, for London, very reasonably-priced wine list.
If you're looking for somewhere a bit different from the usual London hang-outs, you could do worse than book a table at Belvedere. Its location alone makes it worth visiting, and while you're unlikely to rub shoulders with the 'In-crowd', you will get good service, decent food and elegant surroundings at a very fair price.
You take the Chiltern Firehouse if you like; I'll stick with Belvedere.
Top Tip: If the weather's good, try bagging an outdoors table. These are located on the first-floor terrace and overlook the gardens behind the restaurant. Highly sought-after, they offer the opportunity to lunch or dine in sylvan splendour.
Nearby Watering Hole: I'm afraid it's something of a bar and pub desert around here so would recommend settling for the Belvedere's bar. It's of a good size, has plenty of tables and enjoys immediate attention from the ever-alert bar staff. Allow an hour before dinner to do justice to your aperitifs, and perhaps another hour afterwards for digestifs. But take care when reversing the car - those peacocks may still be strutting their stuff!
Keywords: Bob Sturgess, Omni Capital, London, restaurants, review, finest, Belvedere, Holland Park, 17th Century, food, Michael Winner, drink
Source: Bridging & Commercial — https://bridgingandcommercial.co.uk/london-s-top-tables-3