London's Top Tables

In a continuing series of features, Bob Sturges of Omni Capital offers a personal view on some of London's finest, if not always best-known, restaurants.

This month...

Bellamy's, 18 Bruton Place, London W1J 6LY

Located in a cobbled mews street off Berkeley Square, Bellamy's is one of glitzy Mayfair's best-kept dining secrets. An unassuming frontage belies a sophisticated eatery that takes its inspiration from the great Franco-Belgian brasseries. Paired with a relaxed but smart Oyster Bar, Bellamy's restaurant is ideal for lunch, dinner or a casual seafood meal.

Surprisingly light and airy for a smallish restaurant set in this narrow West End side street, Bellamy's loyal clientele comprises polished real estate professionals from nearby Grosvenor Street, ladies of glamour taking a break from their arduous efforts on Bond Street, smug hedge-fund managers and a smattering of in-the-know tourists.

Black, platinum and gold plastic proliferates. Credit cards, that is; not the decor. All the more surprising, therefore, to find prices that average around a very palatable £10 for a starter (try the fish fingers - they're good) and £22 for mains. An expertly-assembled caviar menu nods towards the flashier type of customer (the occasional Russian has been spotted in this neck-of-the-woods), but good-value set menus add an egalitarian touch.

Bellamy's excellent wine list is composed almost entirely of French labels. From memory, a single Italian - Prosecco - merits inclusion, but this attractively-priced fizzer occupies a lonely place in an otherwise Gallic-dominated landscape. Prices are reasonable for Mayfair, and the choice and extent of varieties sufficient to satisfy any palate.

Service is one of the joys of dining at Bellamy's. Expert and brisk, the waiting staff know what they are doing. Let them know you're in a hurry and your food will be delivered with Prussian (!) efficiency but without compromise to its qualify. All the time in the world? Not a problem: linger as long as you wish, Sir/Madam/Comrade.

It's often observed that London is a collection of villages, each with its distinct character. If Mayfair could be so described Bellamy's is, for me, the village restaurant. Sleek it might be; but it is also comfortable, relaxing and reassuringly consistent visit upon visit. Only the best survive in this part of the world, and Bellamy's has been going strongly for over a decade - more than can be said for some of its supposedly better-known rivals.

Top Tip: Go to Bellamy's and rush if you must. But you'll kick yourself later. Far better to book with three hours in mind and simply relax. Soak up the Francophile vibes, ponder the menu, let the white wine chill properly for once, and finish with cheese. You're a long time dead.

Nearby Watering Hole: A previous entrant in its own right to these pages, 'The Guinea' is a mere 50 yards from Bellamy's. This famous Young & Co. pub is one of London's finest. Compact, fabulously unspoilt and consistently packed, it is ideal for a pint beforehand, after or even during dinner or lunch.